New Zealand: 20 Cool Facts and Random Observations

We enjoyed our three weeks in New Zealand. It was easy going: traveling with our rental car, staying in self-catering flats, speaking English and even watching some familiar television shows from back home in the evenings (we’ve all been enjoying reruns of Simpsons and we’ve realized that Bart and Lisa are not that dissimilar to A.J. and Charlie – doh!). We were rewarded with beautiful scenery, New Zealand’s primary draw, as you’ve seen in past posts. New Zealand a very worthy stop, in spite of the pain of getting there and back!

Spoiled, in our self-catering units with plenty of space (1-2 bedrooms)

Spoiled, in our self-catering units with plenty of space (1-2 bedrooms)

When we first arrived, I wasn’t sure I was going to find enough different and interesting things to come up with for the 20 Cool Facts and Random Observations (a regular feature on our blog), but once I got started, I couldn’t limit myself to just twenty remarks!

1. The native people are Maori, who came here in boats about 800 years ago from islands in the Western Pacific Ocean, near Polynesia. The people have a similar sounding language and look to that of the native Hawaiians and to that of Pacific island nations. People of Maori descent make up about 10-15% of the population of New Zealand. Cannibalism was a way of life among the Maori until about the mid-1800s, and during the haka (war dances) sticking out one’s tongue is an old way of saying “I want to see your head on a stick; I’m going to eat you!”

Recreating the traditional look of the Maori people

Recreating the traditional look of the Maori people

When greeting each other, Maori put their foreheads and noses together

When greeting each other, Maori put their foreheads and noses together

2. It’s odd to travel to a country that is even younger than the United States! Although the native people have been here for nearly a thousand years, the Caucasian population was built-up only in the last hundred or so years ago. Europeans, often escaping tough times or legal problems, sailed to New Zealand for new opportunities between 1850 and 1950 or so.

3. Possums are taking over New Zealand! They were introduced from Australia and have flourished, eating native bird species and munching on the lush green vegetation. With no natural predators, their numbers have skyrocketed. The country is waging a “War on Possums,” reducing their numbers from 80 to 30 million over the last decade or so. We’ve seen everything from possum pies (yuck) to possum wool and knit goods (apparently this variety has the third warmest fur in the world after otters and polar bears).

A lucky possum who lives at a wildlife park!

A lucky possum who lives at a wildlife park!

Wanna try one?

Wanna try one?

4. New Zealand has no native land mammals, apart from three small bats. Many unusual and sometimes flightless birds have traditionally lived here including the Giant Mao who grew up to 12 feet in height and could weigh 500 pounds! Unfortunately, many species of birds have been decimated by humans who have hunted them for food and feathers and by non-endemic animals.

5. The national bird is called a Kiwi, no surprise! They are large, flightless, nocturnal birds who struggle for survival with the introduced predators. Breeding and conservation centers have opened to assist in this effort. Our daughter posted in depth about our trip to one here.

6. There are no super highways in New Zealand. The main road running down the center of the more populated North Island is a two lane “highway”. There are times where the speed limit on this road drops to as low as 15 miles per hour! In other words, you aren’t going anywhere fast!

The highway between the cities is just a two-laner!

The highway between the cities is just a two-laner!

7. The roundabout rules the intersections in New Zealand, a country with few stoplights, especially outside of the bigger cities. Driving on the left does take some getting used to.

8. We didn’t realize that parts of New Zealand are covered in really thick vegetation and 30% of New Zealand is forested. There really is an impenetrable New Zealand jungle!

Very dense jungle!

Don’t get lost as you won’t find your way out!

9. The lack of WiFi is frustrating here. We stayed in only one place that advertised “free, unlimited WiFi” and it turned to be very slow. Sometimes we were given 30-60 minutes of WiFi during our stay, but other times we’ve had to buy internet access for $5-20 a day! (tip: local libraries are a great source for WiFi and we’ve often stop in front of one to load up photos on our blog).

10. Sheep are still plentiful here, but their numbers are dropping in favor of dairy cow farms. In 1982, there were 70 million heads of sheep. Now there are 31 million. Dairy cows are also plentiful.

Baaaaa!

Baaaaa!

11. New Zealand was the first nation in the world to give women the right to vote, which happened in 1893.

12. New Zealand’s world famous rugby team are called the All-Blacks and they are tough competition in the international arena. Tim and A.J. attended a regional game (the league below the All-Blacks) and were able to see some talented players and their devoted fans.

Rugby fans at a regional match

Rugby fans at a regional match

13. There is a distinct lack of public toilets in New Zealand. We are used to the regular “rest stops” along highways in the USA, and although there are plenty of pull-overs, view points and picnic stops (usually just with one table!) here, there are few to no have facilities. Where are the port-a-potties?

Rare site!

Rare site!

14. Hard to believe that only 4.4 million people live in New Zealand. Our state of California alone has 38 million, which makes 4 million seem like a rounding error!

15. Traveling here can be expensive, similar to being back home due to the cost of food, accommodation, car rental and so on, but there are some really nice freebies that we discovered along the way. New Zealand’s national museum, Te Papa (literally, Our Place) in Wellington, is an extensive, well-done facility and entry was gratis! We have also entered all local and national parks for free.

At the Te Papa museum, a wonderful stop to learn about the history and nature of New Zealand

At the Te Papa museum, a wonderful stop to learn about the history and nature of New Zealand

16. The typical roof here, even among the larger, newer homes, is a corrugated tin roof! In the past, I have thought of this choice as more likely to be found in shantytowns and poorer areas, but here they are commonplace and can look nice. There are a couple different styles and they are often painted. Sometimes they are hooked up to collection barrels for rain water.

Nice house with a corrugated tin roof

Nice house with a corrugated tin roof

More tin roofs, the typical choice

More tin roofs, the typical choice

17. The humble savory pie is the equivalent to a sandwich back home. Pies are sold all over New Zealand, from petrol stations to convenience stores to takeout joints. There are multiple varieties, including steak and kidney, chicken and sometimes there are vegetarian (but not vegan) ones.

18. New Zealand has won more Olympic medals, per capita, than any other country in the world.

19. There is an unusual reptile here called a Tuatara. They belong in a separate class of reptiles from snakes and lizards and they are the species that is most closely link to the dinosaurs! Tuataras have been on earth for 150+ million years and can live to be 300 years old. They are the only creature on earth that is born with a third eye, although at about six months of age, it gets covered up with skin.

The Dinosaur-like Tuatara

The Dinosaur-like Tuatara

20. No capital city in the world is as far South as Wellington.

Bonus Observations:

21. We’ve been frustrating by the early closing hours of many places. A couple times we went to restaurants, only to find that they closed at 5pm! Mall stores shut down by 6pm and most things were shut on Sundays. Plan accordingly!

22. There are Salvation Army shops in every city and town that we visited, often prominently located on main streets. This is true even in the really small places.

23. New Zealand has a fabulous and free network of travel information sites and kiosks called iSite. They have pamphlets and brochures for every activity and region, as well as free maps. They also are able to assist with booking tours and accommodation. We came to New Zealand without a guidebook and found everything we needed at iSite (and Trip Advisor online).

The iSite, always a source of good info, in Wanaka

The iSite, always a source of good info, in Wanaka

The Softer Side of New Zealand

Our final stop in New Zealand was an alpaca farm on the outskirts of Dunedin. Friends of ours, on their own family travel sabbatical a couple years ago, had spoken about their time on a sheep farm in New Zealand where they witnessed the birth of a newborn lamb! With the prevalence of farms and “farm stays,” I thought our trip here wouldn’t be complete without a stay in the country. And that’s when I stumbled upon the Flagstaff Alpaca Farm, “home of the wonderful alpaca” and their self-contained rental unit, the “paca pad”.

Who can resist these little faces?

They were waiting for us!

They were waiting for us!

The proprietor, Andy, has been raising alpacas in New Zealand for a dozen years. As an animal lover and ethical vegan, I’m always concerned about the care and welfare of animals, but Andy seems to be doing a great job looking after the simple needs of his alpacas: providing with the a safe place to live, looking after their health needs and making sure they have plenty to eat. Some of the alpacas are elderly, in their mid to late teens (lifespans are 15-20 years) and have been at Flagstaff Farm from its inception.

Two of the friendliest alpacas, known as "the Greedy Girls"

Two of the friendliest alpacas, known as “the Greedy Girls”

The mom of the left is a shaggier version of the typical alpaca. Her cute baby is just three weeks old.

The mom of the left is a shaggier version of the typical alpaca. Her cute baby is just three weeks old.

This old girl, about 15 years, spit in A.J.'s face!

This old girl, about 15 years, spit in A.J.’s face!

Their hair is very soft! The young alpacas are carefully sheared only once a year, whereas their older counterparts are shorn once every two years. The alpacas come in a range of colors, but most common are white, honey, brown and black (the lighter colors  are more in demand for yarn), and their hair is semi-hollow and good for insulation. Flagstaff dyes and spins their fleece into yarn and or uses it to stuff duvets. They sell the items at farmers markets, in local stores and online.

Alpacas are curious and inquisitive, running to the fence upon our arrival, but once we entered their field, they tended to be shy and wanted to avoid contact. We were able to lure them over with tasty “alpaca nuts,” but not all the animals wanted to eat out of our hands. The babies were happy to get close enough to sniff us, but declined a nibble. We were dying to just reach out and cuddle them, but they didn’t permit us to smother them with love!

Two shaggy girls checking each other out!

Two shaggy girls checking each other out! This alpaca is Big Chief.

Soft and Furry

Soft and Furry

Feeding the Greedy Girls (always first to the food)!

Feeding the Greedy Girls (always first to the food)!

Hanging out in the field

Hanging out in the field

More of the herd, in a lower field. Flagstaff has 200 alpacas in total.

More of the herd, in a lower field. Flagstaff has 200 alpacas in total.

The “paca pad” was comfortable with a master on-suite bedroom and a separate kitchen & living room combo (with a trundle bed and a pullout sofa). From the couch, you could watch the peaceful alpacas graze in the field. There was even a huge hot tub and we went in during our first two nights. We all slept very well here as the beds and pillows were comfortable, and it was very dark and quiet outside. The best nights of sleep thus far on the trip!

Successful stud, Enrique, watching me in the hot tub!

Successful stud, Enrique, watching me in the hot tub!

We had our first rain of the trip – we had 60+ dry days prior to this – on our third day on the farm, so we opted for a quiet day where our to-do list included doing homework, discussing the latest chapters of our family book club selection (Point Blank, second from the Alex Rider series) and finishing up the last of the food provisions.

So adorable!

So adorable!

Knitted alpacas! The brown one is Charlie's new special stuffy!

Knitted alpacas! The brown one is Charlie’s new special stuffy!

So long, sweet alpacas, we will miss you!

New Zealand’s Crown Jewel, Milford Sound

This was a glorious day. The family set off from Te Anau, a small town on a lovely lake, to head to what seems like the edge of the world. Milford Sound (actually a fjord, created by a glacier, and not a sound) is one of New Zealand’s best natural sights. I did see it fifteen years ago during my trip and was awestruck then, and seeing it again was no disappointment.

The Sound itself is accessible only through a tunnel in a sheer face, and the “town” is not really a town, but a couple of camper parks, a visitor center where the tour boats depart, and a few other sheds servicing tourist activities. But you don’t go for the amenities.

Milford Sound, down in the clouds

Milford Sound, down in the clouds

Milford Sound harbor

Milford Sound harbor

You go for the fjord, whose rock faces are near vertical and go up from the water for hundreds of feet. We set sail on a three hour tour (a three hour tour) under cloudy conditions which mostly burned off and revealed the gorgeous scenery.

Cruisin'

Cruisin’

Beautiful day!

Beautiful day!

All this beauty!

All this beauty!

The kids did well on the ride, helped in part by our seeing some native wildlife. We did see (from a distance) a pair of penguins, who ducked out of sight before we camera-toting voyeurs could snap any good shots. The stars though were the seals, who delighted in modeling for us on the boat.

Together at last

Together at last

Seals in the sun

Seals in the sun

No Jenn- they're behind you!

No Jenn, they’re behind you!

Like most of the South Island, I couldn’t get enough. It’s just been consistently amazingly beautiful for the last few stops. Even Te Anau, our base for a couple of days, has its own beauty to mesmerize.

Just a stunning day

Just a stunning day

On the drive out

On the drive out

Don't "skip" Te Anau!

Don’t “skip” Te Anau!

I don’t know when, or if, I’ll ever be back here, but I’ve been blown away again.

Queenstown: a Proper Venue for a Queen’s Birthday

Jenn hit another double today – 44! We had a small celebration to commemorate the event, including a homemade cake, made by a 11-year old professional and her 40-something assistant:

The cake arrives

The cake arrives

The family and the cake

The family and the cake

A card for the birthday girl

A card for the birthday girl

The main gift though was Jenn jumping out of a perfectly functional airplane (attached to a guide from NZONE). After a couple of weather related false starts the prior day, we got a wonderful day with little wind and mostly clear skies.

Suited up- all systems go!

Suited up – all systems go!

Falling to earth

Falling to earth

Tied in and enjoying the ride

Tied in and enjoying the tandem ride

Wait, it's over?

Wait, it’s over?

On the ground, safe and sound

On the ground, safe and sound

OK, so overall impressions – Jenn was scared only when they opened the door of the plane, but the tandem guide just hopped over to the edge and out they went. The ride down with the parachute was amazing. Jenn keeps saying, “it was just awesome”, and walks around with a ear-to-ear grin.

So, happy 44th to my better half!!

Kiwi Camper Culture and Motor Inns

New Zealand, about the area of Colorado, is small enough to travel around to all the main sites within a couple weeks or so. Some people only come to the South Island, which is said to be more picturesque and wild, but others like to split their time in a one-third North Island, two-thirds South Island fashion as we have chosen to do. With three weeks total, we are on the move quite a bit and are spending just one to three nights in each spot. In all, we will spend the night in nine different places during our stay here.  On the South Island our itinerary includes: Christchurch, Franz Josef, Wanaka, Queenstown, Te Anu and Dunedin.

One helpful thing is that here nearly all accommodation options include a kitchen or kitchenette. Self-catering is the norm and we’ve had cooking facilities everywhere we have stayed, which is a nice change for us after eating out for a total of about 135 meals in a row (3x 45 days while in HK, Thailand and Myanmar for 1.5 months) during the first part of our trip!

Campervans at the Top 10

Camper Vans at the Top 10

There are fun, colorful "mini-campers" too with different slogans on the back

There are fun, colorful “mini-campers” too with different slogans on the back

Judging by the number of campgrounds and motor homes, it’s clear that locals and tourists alike enjoy seeing the countryside. In Christchurch, we stayed at a “Top 10”, which is a chain of holiday parks around the country. At that Top 10, typical of most, there was a range of options including grassy tent sites (less popular), motor home spaces (very popular), motel accommodations (plentiful) and even cabins (just a few). One big difference to campground facilities back home is that there were no fire rings or campfires, at least at the Top 10 that we stayed at, which means that the campsites tend to be quieter and more mellow at night.

The kids in front of our little cabin

The kids in front of our little cabin (they fed ducks off the porch) at Top 10

A.J. chooses his bunk

A.J. chooses his bunk (the other room had a double bed)

While at Top 10, we were in a two-bedroom “Kozy Kiwi” Cabin, which was small and simple but fully functional, well-appointed and newly outfitted. The unit contained a stove, fridge, toaster, kettle, flat screen television and air-conditioning (not needed as the weather turned cool). Pretty decent! On site there was an indoor pool, playground, game room, television lounge, laundry room, communal kitchen and nightly movie offerings. There was even a mall nearby. It was the perfect place to hang out, catch up on errands and have a little fun while not sightseeing.

Our girls LOVES reading and the Kindle has been great!

Our girl LOVES reading and the Kindle has been great!

Relaxing at the pool

Relaxing at the pool

Head first!

Head first!

In addition to ample campground facilities around the country, there are lots of motor inns and motels, which generally have large studios and 1 & 2 bedroom units, all with kitchens. They are something like a Motel 6 or Super 8 in the United States, but with bigger units and more traveler-friendly facilities. I’d highly recommend holiday parks or motor inns to families while traveling around New Zealand!

A.J. flying high on a trampoline at a typical motel in New Zealand

A.J. flying high on a trampoline at a typical motel in New Zealand

Car vs Camper Van? We’ve been really happy with just a car. This is cheaper and allows us more flexibility in moving around. At night, when we stop, we’ve had spacious places to stay versus cramped quarters for our camper van compatriots, especially those with active kids. Plus, if you ever want to drive to town, you don’t have to hop in a camper to run out for some soy milk. We know a couple of families who enjoyed a shorter stay (week or less) in a camper, but if we were to do it all over again, we’d still opt for just a car!

Finally, New Zealand has plenty of viewpoints and picnic tables along the side of the “highway” – usually just a two-lane road – but very few bathrooms, which is quite frustrating! Arg, gotta go!

A rare rest stop toilet!

A rare rest stop toilet…. the cute Kiwi Loo!

From Oakland to Auckland

We have made it to New Zealand, after a rather rough go from Phuket, Thailand. I really don’t know that we would have survived 0600 wakeup, 2 hour flight, 6 hour layover, and then 10 hour flight without the on-the-ground support from our friends the Perssons in Singapore – thanks guys! Charlie’s birthday cake was awesome! Thank you also to everyone who sent birthday wishes to our girl, who is now 11.

I'm eleven

I’m eleven

Happy birthday to me

Happy birthday to me

After a weird first day of adjusting to the time difference in the main commercial city of Auckland (which in the local accent sounds like “Oakland”), we met up with another family we know from the Bay Area, the Sherrys. They are doing their own sabbatical trip, and are in month 7 of a full year (blog here). We managed to stay in the same hotel for a couple of nights, where their kids and ours got to play together (theirs are roughly the same ages), and the adults got to trade stories from the road over beers.

The Sherrys and us

The Sherrys and us

We also managed a full-day outing, visiting the local maritime museum. It was actually pretty interestin g- New Zealand has a nautical tradition, being an island nation, and has over the last 20 years or so has made a name for itself in international yachting competitions. More than once we heard that the Kiwis would take back the America’s cup this fall from the US (competition to be held off San Francisco), so sailing is a big deal here. We also hopped aboard a harbor cruise for a short spin around the area.

The boys at the helm

The boys at the helm

Hoisting the main

Hoisting the main

Auckland itself is a very nice city – sited on a collection of hills, the Central Business District runs down to the water and makes for a beautiful skyline. It’s also a small city (NZ in total has about 4.5 million people, roughly a third of which are in Auckland), so it’s walkable.

Auckland shyline

Auckland skyline

Sky Tower at night

Sky Tower at night

After a too-short couple of days, we headed south in our rental car down the west-central part of the north island, through farm country, to a town called Waitomo. Waitomo is Maori (the indigenous people) for “Water” and “Hole”, and the area is dotted with caves in its limestone base. We spent a really interesting mid-day getting a tour through a couple of the larger ones, one of which was laden with “glow-worms”, insects whose bioluminescence en masse makes them a really fascinating attraction.

The girls as explorers

The girls as explorers

Caves

Caves

if you squint you can see us. The blue dots on the ceiling are the worms.

if you squint you can see us. The blue dots on the ceiling are the worms. It didn’t come out on the photos, but there were thousands of them!

Next stop: volcanic Rotorua